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Friday, February 27, 2009

A Pretty Penny For Beauty

By James Gilbert Pynn

Have you ever wondered what kind of make-up Cleopatra wore? We all know how she allegedly killed herself, yet we have no idea what she used for eyeliner. Well, actually, we do know what she used, so strike that. She, like most Egyptians, regardless of social and economic standing, used kohl to darken her eyes. In fact, it seems the Ancient Egyptians set the standard for cosmetics in the region, inspiring both the Romans and the Greeks to adopt their cosmetic tools and concoctions.

Alarmingly, most of these cosmetic concoctions were made from such unsavory and carcinogenic ingredients as mercury, arsenic, and white lead. A lifetime of using these ingredients are sure to have caused a host of neurological disorders, not to mention cancers. But the point is looking good, right? To be fair, the Egyptians believed the use of make-up warded off evil spirits. Nothing keeps bad luck at bay better than a painted face, for a time at least.

Archeological evidence suggests make-up as we know it today was not manufactured until the Middle Ages and later refined as the Renaissance in Europe evolved. Of course they were only affordable to the artisan and upper classes, yet they also retained a great deal of harmful ingredients. Indeed Queen Elizabeth I of England was renown for having "The Mask of Youth" applied to her face. Unfortunately, the "mask" is certain to have contained arsenic as result of the white lead crushed to make the distinctive base powder.

Ironically, it was an equally iconic queen who would decry the use of make-up two hundred years later. Queen Victoria publicly labeled make-up as "improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for use by actors." Indeed, public perception held that only prostitutes and actors wore make-up. An odd lot to be associated with, but the public disdain for cosmetics, at least in Europe and the Americas, would not be lifted until the turn of 20th Century.

By the middle of the century, cosmetics were being used by women in all industrial societies, regardless of economic backgrounds, around the world. Its popularity had a great deal to do with the popularity and proliferation of Hollywood movies. With the ascension of the Flapper style in the Twenties, the use of make-up and cosmetic ingredients became ubiquitous. As of 2009, the worldwide consumption of make-up exceeds $19 billion. It seems it takes a pretty penny to look pretty.

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